Away from dense forests and mountain peaks, it’s easy to forget that the landscape of central Montana can quickly fold into scrub and rock. It is a northern ring of the Great Basin desert. We skirted through sage brush, fir limbs imitating rattlesnakes.
The creek we followed was called Crow. The canyon was homey to us and we felt we could pitch teepees and attempt the old ways. Relics to the late 1800’s mining, stone camp fire rings abandoned decades ago grew bunchgrass and lichen gardens.
Gnarly junipers and Douglas Firs held a precarious balance on the steeper, exposed slopes. Underneath the dirt I envision a network of stones and rocks, tree roots and mycelial mats all participating in the illusion of a stable west-facing hillside.
A rabbit’s body was stashed just off the trail in a cavern of rock. I smelled it's high note of rot, before I could see it.
Our dogs hunted squirrels and we hunted solitude.
“The desert gives an unsettling sense of the largeness of the universe in relation to the self. The desert is a scary place for a human being if you do not want to feel puny and humbled – that is, like a human being in the desert” (The Anthropology of Turquoise, 288)
I only discovered Ellen Meloy’s writing this fall. And then I found out she passed away a short two years after publishing The Anthropology of Turquoise. I bought her book in Moab, UT at Back of the Beyond Books, a store I’ve planned to visit for years.
I started reading it on my solo backpack trip into the Wind Rivers. I had crossed my fingers for the weather to hold. I lucked out. Elk bugled around me every night. Part didgeridoo and part alien, their calls nailed down the season. I might have forgotten it was fall for the sparkling lakes and robin’s egg blue skies.
My first night camping in the backcountry, the coyotes woke me. Their singing translated into a hazy green circle of northern lights; they were my companions, along with my dog and the stars, and Venus.
Desert Solitaire and the Journey Home are sandy staples when I make my spring pilgramage to the desert for a foray in the Utah canyon wilds. Ellen Meloy’s voice added a modern feminist take on the West. Abbey was a curiosity when he waxed eloquently for the wild places he worked in and explored. Meloy added smudges of sage and juniper to the realization that nature needs us to protect her, and we need her to learn something about the world.
Abbey was sure the Earth will finally dust off her gown when our species has reached its climax. I guess until then I will relish the strange rocks that dot the high desert. Keep looking for petrified wood. One of my companions found a piece of obsidian the size of a mouse’s toenail along Crow Creek.
Mullein pioneered the trail in patches and the 400 year-old junipers were painstakingly morphing another ring. The lichens drank droplets of rain that existed in a realm closer to mist than girthy rain. (Cascadian firs wouldn’t even recognize this moisture as raindrop sweat).
And then I found a red tag on the ground, with faintly yellow #283. Attached to it was a piece of wire that looked like it had once been rigged to a barbed-wire fence. A rogue cow that caught itself on a fence gate and managed to pull free, and slip off the physical evidence of domestication. Perhaps in pursuit of lush pasture.
“Here, it seemed to me, ecofeminist theory gained meaning in the field. Treating nature as a pet or a therapist ends up little better than treating it as a slave. Kinship demands reciprocity. Every nature girl and boy should be prepared to defend the places they love. Otherwise we have not earned them. When we march in from the starry nights and dazzling rivers, we must argue on their behalf, pressure politicians and other moronic invertebrates to wean themselves from their unsightly addiction to corporate blubber and for once act in favor of things that matter, like air to breathe, water to drink, and space to roam” (The Anthropology of Turquoise, 159)